Adventures in the Botanical Garden

While the rest of the group prepared for a weekend trip at the the hot springs, I sat in bed trying to rid myself of a sore throat and sniffles. I was planning to go, but I figured sleeping in 30 degree Andean weather probably wasn't the best idea with a cold. Instead I headed to Venusa to catch up on e-mails, hoping to run into someone who also decided to stay in town. My attempt to find a fellow student was futile though, and sitting alone in the computer lab sick and fatigued without a way to contact anyone I started to feel a little depressed about having to spend the whole weekend in Mérida on my own without really knowing how to navigate the town. Just as I was about to head back to the apartment, though, I ran into Kamela, who was just as desperate to find someone else from the group. Kamela, too, was sick and decided not to to brave the mountainous terrain and weather that weekend.

Saturday we took it easy since we were both feeling a little sick, but on Sunday we were both down to explore, so we headed to the Botanical Gardens even though we weren't exactly sure how to get there. I tried to ask several people, but I discovered that they are not the friendliest around here. Also, Venezuelans are not afraid to stare you down. In fact, I often feel like they're looking at me like I'm from another planet. I can't tell if they're fascinated by Americans or annoyed. Probably the latter. I can't tell you how many times people have addressed me as "Gringa" or "Chica blanca." It's annoying, but you learn to ignore it.

When we finally arrived at the gardens, I realized how satisfying it is to learn to navigate an unfamiliar area. It's a really empowering and reassuring feeling, especially when I was feeling like I was so dependent on other people before.

The garden was a much needed break from the chaos of downtown Mérida. I realized how much noise there is in the city--not just typical city noise like in the US though, but noise like roosters crowing at 3 am. The garden wasn't outstanding by any means, but it was exactly what I was looking for that day--a relaxing adventure. Kamela and I roamed the gardens with our cameras, and reveled in all the photo opportunities. It was nice to feel comfortable walking around with my camera out instead of having to be discreet and nervous about it in the city.

We explored the garden for a while and discovered a "canopy trail," or a high ropes course. When we saw people in the trees, Kamela and I decided that we definitely wanted to do whatever they were doing up there. We didn't really realize what we were getting ourselves into though. It was a pretty intense climbing trail, and I was only wearing sandals. I ended up climbing trees, rope ladders, and netting in my bare feet. A little painful, but definitely worth it! There were several points where I didn't think I would be able to continue, but despite my sweaty shaking hands, I pulled through! Climbing around the canopy barefoot with my camera was probably not the safest, though.

Overall it was a nerve-racking, but exhilarating experience. It was not something I would normally do, but I'm so glad I did it. Also, the guys working there were super chill. it was refreshing to finally meet some Venezuelan hippies outside of all the Venezuelan sleaziness we have experienced so far. 

Horse carcasses, cloud forests, barbed wire, and altitude sickness: A meditation on my near death experience in the Andes

Venusa decided to take us on a field trip on Wednesday. Without any prior information, we embarked on a 11 hour journey in the Andes. We boarded a bus at 10 am, and Bruce took us up the mountain to Laguna Negra, where we would take the Victoria trail down the mountain. Along the way I witnessed several wild horses, one dead horse in a sink hole offering a feast for maggots, 5 annoying girls who "hate wildlife," a cloud, and many other naturey things. Bruce told us we were going on a walk. What bruce didn't tell us was that the walk would be 5 hours long and take us through wild, muddy, wet and shitty (literally) terrain. Bruce also disappeared, and we thought we were going to die in the Andes.


We made several stops along the way to acclimate to the altitude. Here you can see that I acclimated well.


another stop along the way




Mucuchies










I ventured down to a cemetery and found human bones!!! It was worth almost being left behind by the bus.


A cool dude in San Rafael, otro pueblo andino.


San Rafael




Stone church in San Rafael


Laguna Negra, the beginning of of our hike


just some cows chillin


Maggots demolishing a horse carcass


Mid-hike fog/cloud




And then I conquered the mountain

Andes and Arepas: My first week in Mérida

I have been meaning to blog sooner, but with limited internet access and so much going on, it has been difficult. Since arriving on Monday, I have felt like I've been on a roller-coaster, both physically and emotionally. I am still catching up from 36 hours of travel between last Sunday and Monday. I arrived in Mérida on Monday afternoon after 3 flights, 14 collective hours of layovers, and a 1.5 hour bus ride. After being dropped off at Venusa, the school where I will be studying, Maen, my host mom picked up me and my two other roommates, Ashley and Stephanie. Both only have basic Spanish skills, so I was really responsible for communicating and translating. A task that proved difficult for my sleep deprived body and mind.

The apartment I will be living in is a modest 2 bedroom apartment. I share a room with Ashley, while Stephanie has her own room. The family lives across the hall in another apartment, but is in and out of our side very frequently. We are located fairly close the the school--only a 20 minute walk. I'm glad I don't have to take a bus from downtown, but the equatorial sun, humidity, car exhaust, and insane traffic can make my journey to school a chore. In fact, I'm surprised I haven't been hit by a car. Nevertheless, there are always interesting sights along the way.

My host family has been very kind and helpful. Maen and my host dad Álvaro have three kids: Álvaro, 16, José, 21, and Carolina, 25. Álvaro Jr. is a talented violinist. José is a student at ULA (Universidad de Los Andes) studying engineering. Carolina is married and works in industrial design. Álvaro lives with his parents across the hall, and José and Carolina live elsewhere but are very frequently around the apartment. Even though they are all super nice, I still feel a little uncomfortable around the house, like I'm in the way or doing something wrong. I really enjoy hanging out with José and his friend César, though. They are hilarious. Even though I don't understand everything they are saying, I still enjoy spending time with them listening to música latina and discussing cultural differences.

The city is very charming, but chaotic at the same time. It seems to be an organized chaos though. The traffic here is a prime example. There are hardly any traffic lights and drivers just seem to do what they want, yet somehow people get where they're going. They also don't wear seat-belts, which seems to be rather incongruous with their driving style. I have also learned that you want to avoid having a heart attack at rush hour in Mérida, since I have witnessed several ambulances idling for at least 15 minutes in a traffic jam while cars seem to think that honking their horns will solve the problem.

The food here is variable. For the first few days, I wasn't impressed at all. Venezuelan dishes are usually carb and starch heavy, without many vegetables. Many dishes seem to be distorted versions of American food. Arepas, a kind of heavy South American english muffin, are a traditional Venezuelan food and very popular here. I'm not a big fan though. I did, however, have excellent meals the last two days. One was at a hole in the wall vegetarian restaurant in el centro where I had juice, vegetable soup, beans, a type of potato casserole, and a vegetable stir-fry for $2. The other meal was today at a hotel restaurant downtown in the Plaza Bolivar. After a seemingly fruitless journey for something edible, Kamela, another student, and I stumbled upon this gem. After a somewhat confusing interaction with the receptionist as to whether the restaurant was open or not (it was not), she opened the dining room for us. Our meal consisted of thick, syrupy mango juice (yum!) and a huge plate of frijoles negros (black beans), some type of South American cheese, carnitas, rice, a fried egg, and fried plantains all for 2,500 b.f., or $5!!! Everything is super cheap here. This is due to the black market exchange rate being more than twice that of the official exchange rate.

After this first week I have realized that South America has required me to adjust my lifestyle quite a bit--a task that has been complicated by lack of sleep, parasites, and a head cold. As difficult as it is, though, I am really enjoying this experience in such a different culture and geography, and am excited to see what happens in the next five weeks.

Venezuela-bound

Although my original plans to study in Mexico were foiled by the Swine Flu, I will still find myself in Latin America this summer. I know I will be disappointing everyone who expected me to take over a Mexican drug cartel, but fear not; Colombia is only a short bus ride away.

I will be leaving in three days to study in the beautiful city of Mérida in the Venezuelan Andes until June 29th. The city is a college town located in a valley between two mountain rivers, Albarregas and Chama. The Sierra Nevada and Sierra La Culata, two Andean ridges, offer a picturesque backdrop.

During my stay I will study Literatura Caribeña (Caribbean Literature) and Arte Latinomericano (Latin American Art) through a program run by the University of Minnesota. Please stay in touch through e-mail and Skype while I am abroad, and stay tuned for stories, photos, and reflections on my Venezuelan experience!