Thursday, June 25, 2009

But I don't wanna drink a bull's eye smoothie!

My Latin American art professor, Rubén, took us to el mercado principal on Monday. We got to walk around and buy souvenirs. We explored the market for about an hour looking at the "arte popular" or arts and crafts. On our way out Ruben stopped us at a food stand. He wanted us to try Levantón Andino, a traditional Andean drink and aphrodisiac. I'm usually down to try anything, but when I got a whiff of the fish parts and bulls' eyes floating in a bucket, two ingredients in the smoothie, I had to pass.



Ingredients in Levantón Andino:

fruit
melon
papaya
pineapple
strawberry
wheat cereal
powdered milk
liquid milk
raw eggs
raw quail eggs
catfish eggs
bulls eyes
chuchuguaza (liquor)
brandy
wine
rum
2 secret liquors
beer
the secret of Maria Luisa

Delicious, right?

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Mamaita

Last week I moved into a new house, Mamaita (they name their houses here). It's fantastic. I live with my mom Coro and her 19 year old grandson Andrés who are both super sweet. She lives next door to her sister Dulce, who is a wrinkly ex-chain smoking woman who wears her nighty around all day and cracks jokes. There is family in and out of the house all day every day, so it's really hard to keep track of who is related to whom. It's great to have so much commotion, though, and so many people to talk to when I come home from classes. I love how relaxed everything is around there, and that they make no effort to act differently because there are students staying in the house. Also, the food is delicious. Jony, our housekeeper and cook, makes the most amazing lunch for us everyday.


Looking into my room

View from my room




Monday, June 15, 2009

Me llaman la gigante flaca

Last weekend's adventure was a trip to Catatumbo, where I saw Los Relámpagos, a unique natural phenomenon of cloud to cloud lightning that occurs every night for about 10 hours. We stayed in a hut on stilts in Lake Maracaibo where we slept in hammocks, got eaten alive by mosquitos, and witnessed an awesome storm and Catatumbo lightning. I also met Steve, my new friend from London who has traveled every country in the world except Libya and East Timor.















Tuesday, June 9, 2009

The Mountains Look Like Broccoli

So I'm back in Mérida after a weekend in Los Llanos, the tropical flatlands of Venezuela, and I wasn't eaten by an anaconda, caiman, or a piranha. I did however, eat a piranha. It was a little disappointing, though, as it wasn't very meaty and tasted like an average whitefish. I have to say that it was gratifying, though, to eat something that would eat my toes off.

A group of about 12 of us made a 9 hour journey east of Mérida through the mountains to arrive at our destination, which hadn't really been clarified prior to the trip. I guess I have come to accept the lack of information around here. The ride, although alittle nauseating, was actually enjoyable. We passed through several beautiful mountain towns and drove up and down mountain passes with unbelievable views of the Andes. The thought that we might drive over a cliff did pass through my mind more than once as we passed cars around upward curves. Once we got over the mountains we drove through the the plains of Venezuela. The change in climate from the mountains was drastic. As we drove through the lowlands I experienced heat and humidity that I had never felt before. We seemed to drive through the middle of nowhere for hours. Even though there wasn't much too see, there was something really beautiful about it. Eventually we ended up up at a small ranch called "Los Mangos," which was really quite charming with small pink huts that housed the hammocks we would sleep in.

I was a little wary about sleeping in the hammocks, imagining myself flipping over in the middle of the night onto the cement floor. I slept surprisingly well, though despite the heat, buzzing generator and crowing roosters that wander aimlessly around Los Mangos.
The next day was spent horseback riding, napping for three hours in my hammock, and hunting for anacondas, piranhas, and caiman. After walking down a dirt road for a couple hours while the guys from Los Mangos waded through the swamps in rubber boots prodding for Anacondas with wooden sticks, we thought the hunt would be fruitless, so we moved on to Piranha fishing.The fishing poles were primitive tools: a wooden stick with fishing line attached to the rod at one end, and a hook at the other. One of the guys pulled out a slab of meat, started cutting it into small pieces, and attached it to the hook. I threw my line into the water, and within 3 seconds I felt a tug. Sure enough, I had caught my first Piranha. When we were done fishing and about to head back, two of our Venezuelan friends emerged from the distance carrying a male anaconda between them. It was quite a surprise. I took the standard photos with the reptilian beast, discovering soon after that the snake had pooped, or peed, or excreted something smelly onto my hand that took more than Purell and two handy wipes to remove.
The next morning we woke up to a downpour, the kind that lasts all day. I thought we might head back early, but Ysaac, our tour guide had another plan. We boarded the bus and drove (or slid) down the dirt road headed toward a river where we would ride in a small metal canoe shaped boat that was rusted and probably about 50 years old. When we got there the boat was half filled with water. We all looked at each other wondering how Manú our guide was going to deal with this. As we stood a few inches deep in mud, Manú instructed us to take off our shoes.

He then pulled out a bucket and started scooping the water out of the boat, placed wooden planks widthwise as seats and attached the motor. We were all skeptical, but got in the boat anyways. We didn't sink, but I'm pretty sure the boat had a leak, since we had to occasionally scoop out water. We survived, though, and ended up seeing all kinds of cool wildlife, mostly birds and river dolphins.

Although I've never been so sweaty, smelly, and muddy in my life, this trip was exactly what I was looking for this last weekend. It was so great to explore the country and see a landscape completely different than what I have been living in for the past 3 weeks. I also decided that capybaras would make the perfect pet. I just have to figure out how to catch one and get it through customs.





Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Adventures in the Botanical Garden

While the rest of the group prepared for a weekend trip at the the hot springs, I sat in bed trying to rid myself of a sore throat and sniffles. I was planning to go, but I figured sleeping in 30 degree Andean weather probably wasn't the best idea with a cold. Instead I headed to Venusa to catch up on e-mails, hoping to run into someone who also decided to stay in town. My attempt to find a fellow student was futile though, and sitting alone in the computer lab sick and fatigued without a way to contact anyone I started to feel a little depressed about having to spend the whole weekend in Mérida on my own without really knowing how to navigate the town. Just as I was about to head back to the apartment, though, I ran into Kamela, who was just as desperate to find someone else from the group. Kamela, too, was sick and decided not to to brave the mountainous terrain and weather that weekend.

Saturday we took it easy since we were both feeling a little sick, but on Sunday we were both down to explore, so we headed to the Botanical Gardens even though we weren't exactly sure how to get there. I tried to ask several people, but I discovered that they are not the friendliest around here. Also, Venezuelans are not afraid to stare you down. In fact, I often feel like they're looking at me like I'm from another planet. I can't tell if they're fascinated by Americans or annoyed. Probably the latter. I can't tell you how many times people have addressed me as "Gringa" or "Chica blanca." It's annoying, but you learn to ignore it.

When we finally arrived at the gardens, I realized how satisfying it is to learn to navigate an unfamiliar area. It's a really empowering and reassuring feeling, especially when I was feeling like I was so dependent on other people before.

The garden was a much needed break from the chaos of downtown Mérida. I realized how much noise there is in the city--not just typical city noise like in the US though, but noise like roosters crowing at 3 am. The garden wasn't outstanding by any means, but it was exactly what I was looking for that day--a relaxing adventure. Kamela and I roamed the gardens with our cameras, and reveled in all the photo opportunities. It was nice to feel comfortable walking around with my camera out instead of having to be discreet and nervous about it in the city.

We explored the garden for a while and discovered a "canopy trail," or a high ropes course. When we saw people in the trees, Kamela and I decided that we definitely wanted to do whatever they were doing up there. We didn't really realize what we were getting ourselves into though. It was a pretty intense climbing trail, and I was only wearing sandals. I ended up climbing trees, rope ladders, and netting in my bare feet. A little painful, but definitely worth it! There were several points where I didn't think I would be able to continue, but despite my sweaty shaking hands, I pulled through! Climbing around the canopy barefoot with my camera was probably not the safest, though.

Overall it was a nerve-racking, but exhilarating experience. It was not something I would normally do, but I'm so glad I did it. Also, the guys working there were super chill. it was refreshing to finally meet some Venezuelan hippies outside of all the Venezuelan sleaziness we have experienced so far. 





Saturday, May 23, 2009

Horse carcasses, cloud forests, barbed wire, and altitude sickness: A meditation on my near death experience in the Andes

Venusa decided to take us on a field trip on Wednesday. Without any prior information, we embarked on a 11 hour journey in the Andes. We boarded a bus at 10 am, and Bruce took us up the mountain to Laguna Negra, where we would take the Victoria trail down the mountain. Along the way I witnessed several wild horses, one dead horse in a sink hole offering a feast for maggots, 5 annoying girls who "hate wildlife," a cloud, and many other naturey things. Bruce told us we were going on a walk. What bruce didn't tell us was that the walk would be 5 hours long and take us through wild, muddy, wet and shitty (literally) terrain. Bruce also disappeared, and we thought we were going to die in the Andes.


We made several stops along the way to acclimate to the altitude. Here you can see that I acclimated well.


another stop along the way




Mucuchies










I ventured down to a cemetery and found human bones!!! It was worth almost being left behind by the bus.


A cool dude in San Rafael, otro pueblo andino.


San Rafael




Stone church in San Rafael


Laguna Negra, the beginning of of our hike


just some cows chillin


Maggots demolishing a horse carcass


Mid-hike fog/cloud




And then I conquered the mountain